I stayed in Vientiane a number of days before going up country to Long Tieng. In one of the briefings was shown pictures of the Chinese Communist (CHICOM) Embassy; no stopping here and absolutely no picture taking as the Chinese guards will not hesitate to fire at you. Two weeks before a couple of Americans in a jeep stopped to take some pictures and a Chinese guard unloaded a clip of 7.62mm in their direction. (That impressed me.)

During my stay with the Downtowners, I shared quarters with Fred in a neat roomy French style villa. It was quite a change from the red dust/mud environment of NKP. Fred had a white civilian Jeep with right hand drive. Sometimes at night we'd hit a couple of his favorite watering holes and quaf down a few cool ones, nice quiet places unlike the White Rose..

One hot evening I asked Fred if he wanted to go downtown for some beer drinking. Said he didn't feel up to it, but take the Jeep and go. He had confidence I knew where our favorite bars were and how to get back. Seemed strange to drive with steering wheel on the right and stick shift on the left.

Several bars later I decided to pack it in as it was well after 2300. Somehow I got lost --no way could I find any landmarks I recognized. I tried this street and that, even ran out of road at one point. I had the feeling that Vientiane is no place to be roaming around late at night. I did not see any other vehicles. I knew if I could get to the main avenue with it's Lao copy of Paris' Arc de Triomphe, lit up like a white Christmas tree, that I'd have no trouble finding my way. I could see the sky illumination to my left. If I take the next street, go about two-three blocks I should run unto the avenue lights.

That's what I did, turned down the next paved street. Driving happily along I suddenly came upon a high wall and a high picket iron double gates across the street, to the right was one of those classic one-man guard shacks. I estimate I was 25-30 feet away when I stopped and the whole area lit by my hi-beams. To my surprise a guard, rather short, in a loose fitting light tan uniform and pith helmet came out. I think I woke him up. He headed for the iron bar gate as if to open it, then stopped and turned. The last thing I remember of the guard, and it's imprinted in me like a photo, was seeing him starting to unsling the AK-47 from across his chest (I was impressed!) It was then: "The Light Dawned and Caesar Crossed The Rubicon." -----"Oh S---, It's the Chicom Embassy!!"


You never saw a person turn around a Jeep so fast in your life. All I kept saying was Oh S---! about five times (one of my favorite involuntary expressions when in a bind!) --Being excited and with the left hand stick shift I must have ground-up a half a pound of coffee in that transmission. Once pointed 180 degrees from my original course, and grimacing all the way, I floored it. I expected to hear that AK-47 firing at me and the Jeep, but the Chinese guard didn't open fire. I put a shaky respectful distance between me and the Communist Embassy, found the well lighted avenue, pulled over to the side and sat there trying to calm myself - had to. I was really shaking. Then and only then, did I proceed home.

Next morning during the drive to work, Fred asked me about the previous evening and wondered if I had any problem getting home? "Naw, no problem at all." (1969). ---But between you and me, I sure know where the back door to THAT embassy is. (1999).

Copyright 1995 by Ken Griswold.  All rights reserved.